Day One: All eyes on Loi Taileng (12 February 2014)

Loi Taileng means Shan Shine mountain. I was there the first time in February 2000, a few months after it had been established. It was cold, windy and humid all year round at that time. I once made the mistake of leaving my bedding uncovered by a plastic sheet as they did there at that time. When I got back in the evening I found it sodden, almost waterlogged. Luckily, they had spare blankets, so I had no trouble getting a good night sleep.

It is less colder now and a lot less damper but still windy and dustier. Luckily (again), they have better accommodations, so the nights are quite pleasant there.

There are three military checkpoints along the 31km gravel road that branches off from the Maehongson-Chiangmai highway near Pang Mapha. I remember they used to be strict and fussy about wayfarers even though there are several Thai villages along the road.

But since the ceasefire between the Restoration Council of Shan State/Shan State Army (RCSS/SSA) signed late 2011, I was told by my driver they have become a lot easygoing.

Indeed, questions asked by the soldiers have become mere routine, and a lot less about security. But I remember also that when I went to visit the Karen National Union (KNU) across the border last month, there were no checkpoints along the way that stopped the vehicle I was in to question us.

The fruits of ceasefire, I thought to myself. What more to expect if peace is achieved.
Two monks who were on a visit called on me before dinner to discuss about the role of state constitutions in a federal union. The discussion inevitably led on to political science, a subject they showed keen interest. I counseled that for Buddhist monks who want to study political since the Digha Nikaya scripture is said to be the best. They seemed to be surprised upon hearing that, probably because the remark was made by a layman.

Later, I met Chairman Sao Yawdserk who informed me that at least part of the Burmese military appeared to think that tomorrow’s election of a new chairman was a trick by him to either upset or derail the peace process. “Well, the reality, contrary to what they think, is that it is time for us to have more leaders who are able to carry on with the peace process even if I’m not around,” he remarked.

He also told me of a report by a reliable source that Naypyitaw (or part of it) did not want to implement the joint agreement on the crop substitution project signed in October 2012. “They seem to be afraid they will have to share any credit that results from the project with us,” he said.

“How are we going to build a lasting union with that kind of attitude?” I asked. He didn’t answer. But his smile was enough for me.